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And some other interesting things... Douglas Adams - The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy Basic Timer for RS 49-425 - 1 Transistor Timer - RF Transmitter Links - E-mail - Opto-coupler Use & Testing - Battery Tester Circuit |
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Basic timer
for the RS 49-425. With Infinity Jr camera and NEMA 4x electrical enclosure. Works with other sensors too. |
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Day / Night
sensor schematic. For daylight or night-time disabling. For use with the "basic timer", the "not-so- basic" timer, and other circuits. |
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Not-So-Basic
Timer - A more advanced timer with added input and output circuits. Shown used with Fuji 60 AF. |
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"Squeaker"
lure to draw animals in to camera. Record custom sounds! |
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One Transistor
Timer A very simple long duration timer with minimal components. |
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Basic Motion
Sensor - A schematic for a 'do-it-yourself' PIR motion detector. Cheap and easy! |
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Radio
Remote for PIR sensor. Works with "basic sensor" above and can be modified to work with many other sensors. In progress! |
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External
Battery Adapter for the Canon Owl PF camera. This might also fit other cameras that take two "AA" batts. |
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| Learn the basics of trail-camera opto-couplers (use them in place of relays). |
This circuit uses the ST-Microelectronics micro-power quad op-amp # TS27L4IN for amplification and as a "window comparator". It's not the worlds best amplifier, but it has a standard pinout, is cheap and has very low power consumption of only 10 microAmps / amplifier. It's adequate for use in a PIR sensor circuit. They are available from Mouser Electronics. Many other micro-power, single-supply op-amps will work for this application.
"U1" A and B amplify and filter the PIR sensor signal. "U1" C and D form a window comparator that gives a high output when motion is detected. "U2" A and B are Schmitt input inverters that 'clean up' the sluggish output from the window comparator and provide two different outputs as shown in the schematic ("U2" eliminated in simplified version). These outputs can be used to trigger any digital logic timer circuits or the classic 555's that follow the sensor stage for shutter timing and picture interval timing.
The "Audio Pot" at the output of "U1A" controls sensitivity (gain). Point the little arrow towards ground and sensitivity falls. Turn the arrow towards "U1A"s output and sensitivity is maximized. POT1 and R10 can be eliminated if no sensitivity adjustment is needed. In this case, connect pin#1 of "U1A" to the unmarked (negative side) of C4.
With the part values shown and good optics, this circuit is very sensitive when set to "Maximum" - often too sensitive! Most of the time I use it with the sensitivity set down about 33% from Max. It's good to have the option of high sensitivity when you want it though.
NOTES: Regulator IC and supply filter capacitors not shown but recommended. Use industrial temperature rated ICs and NPO/COG temperature rated capacitors for best results in low and high temps. Note: Radio Shack tends to sell parts with a "commercial" temp rating of ~ +32 F (0 C) to +140 F (+70 C).
Connect all unused logic gate inputs to regulated V+ or GND, as appropriate (if applicable).
This circuit has been working well for me. In case I drew it wrong, send corrections to: archilochus57@yahoo.com
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Day / Night / 24 Hour Select Sensor |
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This circuit, combined with the sensor circuit above, allows you to select between daylight only, night-time only, or 24 hour enabled. Both circuits are for use with the timer circuit which I have not yet drawn up on Windraft. With a lower value for "R5" (say about 100K), this circuit should work with a CMOS TLC555 timer. Connect the day/night switch output to the 555's "enable" input pin #4. I've not used it with the 555, so a little experimentation is called for.
Use any micro-power CMOS comparator (or even a micro-power CMOS op-amp) for "U1A". Resistor "R4" might need to be changed a bit to suit the specific IC you use. "R2" and "R3" may also need adjustment if you don't use a comparator with low input currents.
A CdS (Cadmium Sulfide) photo-resistor (or LDR - Light Determining Resistor), can be used in place of the phototransistor "Q1". The photo-resistor might actually work better for this application since it has a slow response time and is therefore less sensitive to sudden light changes or flickering light conditions. I only used a phototransistor because I had a whole bunch in my junk pile. Many commercial PIR sensors use CdS photo-resistors as sensor elements for their daylight disable circuits.
NOTES: Regulator IC and supply filter capacitors not shown but recommended. Use industrial temperature rated ICs and NPO/COG temperature rated capacitors for best results in low and high temps. Note: Radio Shack tends to sell parts with a "commercial" temp rating of ~ +32 F (0 C) to +140 F (+70 C).
Connect all unused logic gate inputs to regulated V+ or GND, as appropriate.
This circuit has been working well for me. In case I drew it wrong, send corrections to: archilochus57@yahoo.com
First off - I've never actually tried this circuit, so I'm just going by theory. It should work - I think! View schematic
It uses a Light Dependant Resistor (LDR), or
photo-resistor, to drive the base of the transistor "Q1"
low when illuminated. Values for "Rx" and the "POT"
will need to be experimented with to accomodate the LDRs characteristics
(the Radio Shack set of 5 LDRs is a mixed bag with differing part-to-part
characteristics). Use more than one LDR to pull the Base of "Q1"
down harder if needed. Don't go with too low a value for "Rx"
as this could cause excessive current consumption or even damage
to the LDR.
"POT" sets the light level at which circuit disables.
Please send any results with part values from your experiments
so I can update this section with more complete information.
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Not-So-Basic Timer Schematic |
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This circuit provides for two inputs - One from the PIR sensor, and one from any other trigger type (such as switches, pressure mats etc). If you don't want this option, you can eliminate the 4071 "OR" gate "U8C" and the pull down resistor at the optional input pin #9 and apply the PIR sensor pulse to the 4081 "AND" gate "U1A" at pin #2. This "AND" gate (4081 "U1A") allows for optional day/night/24 hour selection if you use the day/night/24 hour select sensor circuit above. If you do not need this option either, you can eliminate "U1A" and its pull up resistor and apply the PIR sensor pulse to pin #5 of "U1B". Remember to keep the 220K pull down resistor at the "RUN" output of the "SETUP/RUN" switch "SW2".
The rest of the circuit provides the following:
1) A selectable delay between pictures with the following 10 steps; 8sec, 15sec, 30sec, 1min, 2min, 4min, 8min, 15min, 30min, 1hour. Selected with rotary switch "SW1". You can eliminate "SW1" and just hard wire one of the "Q" outputs of the 4020 "U2" to have a fixed delay. Or use a slide switch with 2 or 3 positions....you get the idea. "Q5" is the 8sec output, "Q14" the 1 hour output. This "digital" time delay is more temperature / humidity stable then your basic 555 timer due to the smaller capacitors used. The time delay is also set with a switch, rather then the potentiometer used with 555's, so the guess-work is removed.
2) A flash "refresh" pulse for the Canon Owl series of cameras (or, for several other cameras, a "wake-up" pulse to keep the cam from automatically shutting down). This keeps the Owls flash ready to go, eliminating the up to 7 second delay that the Owls can develope if left sitting idle for a few hours or so. For the Owl series (or other cams that don't power-down), if the delay does not bother you, you can eliminate "Relay1" and tie the "half press" shutter wire to the "full press" shutter wire and connect both to "Relay2".
The optional LED turns on for about 2 seconds every time motion is detected in set-up mode. It will also blink once each time a photo is taken. If you use the circuit "as-is", the cameras red-eye reduction light will blink on each time motion is detected in set-up mode (assuming flash is active - which it always seems to be once the cam is in a box), providing a nice set-up indicator and making the LED unnecessary. If you eliminate "Relay1" as noted above, then you'll need the LED to provide a set-up indicator.
The capacitors for "U6" and "U7" should NOT be polarized aluminum or tantalum electrolytics (any cap with a bar or arrow and a '+' or '-' sign at one leg is a polarized type). Use multiple ceramic or film caps temperature rated NPO / COG that add up to the value needed - no need for precision - just get close to the stated value - higher is better.
Regulator IC and supply filter capacitors not
shown but recommended. Use industrial temperature rated ICs and
NPO/COG temperature rated capacitors for best results in low and
high temps. Note: Radio Shack tends to sell parts with a "commercial"
temp rating of ~ +32 F (0 C) to +140 F (+70 C).
UPDATE !! Added in the regulator and corrected
the error of having no diodes on the relay coils. Also changed
the timing cap value on "U6" to 0.47uF. I use Seiko
low-drop micropower regulators part# 628-81250SGY from Mouser - cheap
at 70 cents!
Some notes: When first powered-up, the circuit will cause a false triggering of the cam due to "bounce" from the on-off switch. Turn circuit power on first - then camera power. When powered-down, the circuit will sometimes cause a false triggering of the cam due to switch "bounce". Turn camera off first - then turn circuit off. If circuit power is "ON" and camera power is "ON" and you make adjustments to the sensor circuits sensitivity or to timer circuits time delay, this can cause false triggering of the cam. Turn camera power off before making adjustments. The "Setup/Run" switch does not cause any false triggerings and can be switched at any time.
I really had to jam this circuit into the screen so I could take a "screen shot" of it. If it is too small, I do have the original Windraft file which I could e-mail to anyone interested. You'll need Windrafts free demo to view it though.
This circuit has been working well for me. In case I drew it wrong, send corrections to: archilochus57@yahoo.com
 Outside view with batt door closed. |
 With batt door open.See notch for wires. |
 Adapter removed from camera. |
Manufacturer links. Some companies actually asked for links! - so to be fair - I put 'em all on!
Buckshot35 - http://www.buckshot35.com/ Cam-Trakker - http://www.camtrakker.com/
Crow Systems, Ltd. - http://crowsystems.hypermart.net Deerview - http://www.deerview.net/
Gametronix - http://www.gametronix.com/home.html Game View - http://www.gamevu.com/
Highlander - http://www.highlandersports.com/ Moultrie - http://www.moultriefeeders.com/
Non-typical - http://www.nontypicalinc.com/ Phantom Hunter - http://www.phantomhunter.com/
Phototrap - http://www.phototrap.com/home.html Trail-Master - http://www.trailmaster.com/
Trail Sense Engineering - http://www.trailsenseengineering.com/ Trail-Timer - http://www.trailtimer.com/
Vigil??? - http://www.abacom.com/vigil/vigil.htm WoodsWatcher - http://www.woodswatcher.com/
